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Franke Laser LSX651 Stainless Steel Kitchen Sink

 Franke Laser LSX651 sink
Franke’s LSX651 has a super slim low-profile edge that beds down onto the worktop to produce a sink that is virtually flush. This will keep the customers happy but what’s in it for the installer?
Cardboard template markup (click for more)
A cardboard template is provided which allows enough space for the barbs. Don’t be tempted to draw around the sink and measure in because the barbs need to squeeze down into a gap and grip. If the gap is too small or too big they won’t work. The template also gives you the spacing on the carcase so you can line it up perfectly on a 600mm base.
 Hilti jigsaw (click for more)
I love this Hilti jigsaw because it has electronic speed control. I used some old style Faithful blades. I set the pendulum to zero and pushed slowly on a high speed because it minimises breakout on the laminate.
 The test of the cut-out (click for more)
The test of the cut-out is that the cardboard template drops through. That was fine but the back rail on this carcass is well forward because of the service duct so I had to cut the rails slightly to accommodate the tap tails. You can see the patented barb fixing just next to the tap hole.
 Offering up the sink (click for more)
I held the sink above the worktop on some off cuts of copper tube to make sure it didn’t drop in and engage the barbs. If you do need to get it out you have to drive a slip between the barb and the worktop.
A cardboard template is provided which allows enough space for the barbs... (click picture for more). I love this Hilti jigsaw because it has electronic speed control... (click picture for more). The test of the cut-out is that the cardboard template drops through... (click picture for more). I held the sink above the worktop to make sure it didn’t drop in and engage the barbs... (click picture for more).
Too much silicone (click for more)
That lovely gasket that you get on Franke sinks is not supplied with the Laser because you need to get the sink as close as possible to the worktop so there is hardly any lip. I used a bit too much silicone but it squeezed out ok. I also primed the cut-out with oil based primer because I am the belt and braces type.
 Slim-line overflow pipe (click for more)
Nearly forgot to fit the slim-line overflow pipe, just as well I remembered because it was tight on the rail.
 Franke advises the use of gloves (click for more)
There is no roll on the edge so Franke advises the use of gloves when handling the sink.
 The barbs engage (click for more)
If you push down firmly you should feel the barbs engage and dig into the side of the cutout. A nice feeling for an old plumber.
You need to get the sink as close as possible to the worktop... (click picture for more). Nearly forgot to fit the slim-line overflow pipe... (click picture for more). There is no roll on the edge so Franke advises the use of gloves when handling the sink. Pushing down firmly you should feel the barbs engage... (click picture for more).
use a Quick clamp (click for more)
I had to use a Quick clamp to squeeze the right hand front edge onto the silicone. The rest of it sat down perfectly.
 very neat looking sink (click for more)
It is a very neat looking sink that gives the illusion of being flush.
 Franke waste kit (click for more)
I used the Franke waste kit not just because it looks good but because it is a good waste kit with a level invert reducer to 40mm. I ran the waste in 50mm. Franke suggests compression fitting on the tap tails but I prefer JG Speedifits with isolating valves for this job.
I had to use a Quick clamp to squeeze the right hand front edge onto the silicone... (click picture for more). It is a very neat looking sink that gives the illusion of being flush. I used the Franke waste kit not just because it looks good but... (click picture for more).

Franke claims that their new clipless sink, which has a patented spring clamp in the sides, is 10 times faster to fit. Despite being given the brief to test out the time saving element of the Franke Laser I am not even going to go there. Fitting a sink is not the sort of job you should rush. Having cut the masons mitre ready for the next run of worktop the last thing I wanted was to make an error on the cut-out so I took plenty of time and double checked every measurement. There are plenty of kitchen fitters out there who would do this in their sleep but I am always slightly nervous when cutting out worktops, one tiny slip up can cost you well over a £100 so why not take a little extra time to make sure it is right.

I began cutting the aperture in situ but when I realised that I was going to cut the rail of the carcass for no good reason (because the drainer sits within a 40mm worktop) I took the whole thing outside onto a set of trestles. The 1½ bowl model is a tight fit in a 600 base unit so you always need to measure carefully.

The sink uses a unique fitting system of barbs which grip the side of the cut-out so you have to make sure the cut-out is accurate. There is only a 10mm lip so don’t whatever you do stray over the pencil line. You also need to make sure the cut-out is plumb. Probably a better bet it to use a 1/2inch twin flute router. Any trouble I have had with cut-outs is always caused by using bimetal blades. I gave up using these ages ago on this sort of job because they have a mind of their own and meander like mad through a deep cut. I now use the old fashioned stiff blade. It is better to break a blade or two than to have it waving in and out on the bottom of the cut.

ROGER’S VERDICT

The Franke Laser is a good looking sink and not having to tighten clips up and fiddle around getting them past the rail edges is a major leap forward. I like the idea and, yes, it does save time but I used that time making the cut-out perfect because the 10mm lip scared me a bit. So long as you draw around the template and leave the line you will be fine.

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